Showing posts with label extant costumes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label extant costumes. Show all posts

14 Apr 2011

Hospital fashion!

I was searching the 'net for "kattun", which is the period term for printed cotton fabric (derived, of course, from cotton). Since there - obviously - is a Japanese pop group called KAT-TUN, an image search proved to be quite frustrating. Trust me. But in the end, I found something very interesting.

Belonging to the collections of the Army museum here in Stockholm are 32 shirts labelled "hospital shirts" or "night shirts". They had been stacked away in storage on the island of Gotland until 1919 when they were given to the museum. Information is a bit scarce, but here is what we know (and by "we", I mean Army museum...):

It's the year1808. Sweden is at war with Russia and Denmark/Norway. War means battles and battles means wounded men in need of care and medical equipment. And hospital clothing.

C A Staaff. 1870's illustration

5,000
hospital shirts were required to be made in Stockholm. They were to be made from linen, white with blue stripes...

Images copyright of Armémuseum, Stockholm

Not quite as described?

We don't know why these shirts came to look as they did. 1808 was a year where mostly everything was in hight demand due to the war and bad harvests and the factory obliged to deliver the shirts obviously couldn't get hold of enough of the right fabric, and had to make do with whatever they could find. Which happened to be an assortment of very fashionable cotton prints...

Images copyright of Armémuseum, Stockholm

The museum description says that the shirts seem to have been made in great haste with a very simple construction, like an infant's shirt with no side seams and sleeves attached with a minimum of care.

The prints have been identified as the work of Lamm's kattun factory at Lilla Blecktornet in Stockholm, signed Salomon Aron Moses Lamm (Lamm is by the way one of the oldest Jewish families in Sweden).

Did the factory rob its inventory of every available remnant to be able to secure the order of 5,000 shirts? How many were made in the end? The museum description doesn't tell us anything about the condition of the shirts but from what I can tell, they look well preserved. Perhaps they never got into service at all? One of the many problems with the 1808-09 war was the poor logistics. Supplies often ended up nowhere near the troops that (badly) needed them, so it is possible that these shirts weren't used. Or that some out of the 5,000 shirts were used, but just not these 32.

At any rate, it is a bit amusing to imagine the reactions on these shirts. The field hospital is up and running but badly under-equipped. The starving men are bleeding in their uniforms. It's cold. But lo! Finally some supplies! An eager surgeon opens a much longed for crate. Will it contain food? Medical equipment? At least some bandages? He stares at the contents in disbelief. Printed cotton in all the colours of the rainbow: "What the deuce is this?"

We'll never know for sure. But follow this link and you can admire all the 32 shirts (clicking an item will allow you to click again for a larger image). Some of them have been examined more closely in a 1953 book on Swedish kattuns that I will look up at the library whenever I get the chance.

26 Feb 2010

Power of Fashion Database

Nordiska Museeet just launched a website dedicated to their new exhibition with good, zoomable pictures of the costumes.


Only in Swedish, but take my hand, and I'll guide you to the 18th century pieces.

1. Click here to go to the database.

2. To view the costumes, click the box to the far left, which says "Tidslinje" (=time line)

3. Click "1700"

4. Move the slider to see all the objects. Disregard the 1980's Levi's jeans that snuck their way in for some reason. Click on an object of your choice.

5. Below the image, there's a box that says "Nästa bild". This means "next image". Click "Zooma mer" for the closest view; click "Zooma" for a medium-view; and click "Zooma ut" to zoom out!

Have fun, and feel free to include my instructions if you want to share the link to your fellows!

23 Feb 2010

Power of Fashion - 300 years of clothing

Today I got the privilege to see the new exhibition at Nordiska Museet here in Stockholm. The exhibition is the museum's new, permanent installation of historical fashion.

I have longed to see it for quite some time now, and was very excited now when the big day had arrived!

I had understood that the exhibition was arranged so that rather than being a time-line of fashion, it would more or less pin-point three decades of fashion - the 1780's, the 1860's and the 1960's.

This disappointed me a little (no high-waisted era?!?) but bits and pieces of other eras were included after all, so I decided to only enjoy myself, and to love what I saw!

I really liked that they included clothing of the common people as well as the fashionable since it's not very documented, it added some depth.

But enough talking - we want pictures, don't we? I'm afraid you have to accept them as they are; it's not easy to snap pictures through glass, especially not when there's a pesky blue light that's reflected in the glass on all the display cases along one certain wall!

But here we go!


Stays! One pair of child's stays and another pair for a woman.

By pressing my face to the glass, I managed to study the stitches for the channels more closely, and suddenly I don't feel so bad about my own stitching any more! You may be able to see the stitches on the child's stays pretty well if you enlarge the photo, but the other pair didn't have the smallest, tightest stitches either!

The stitches on these pocket hoops are terrible! Yay for lazy seamstresses from all ages!


A lonely stomacher! Where did it's gown go?

A well-off farmer with his pipe.


A servant girl in rural clothing.

A dozed-off Scanian peasant woman in her finest bling (see Anna's comment for some interesting bits)!

This mannequin depicted a country clergyman's wife, who set the fashion example in rural areas.


Buttons, buttons... With miniature paintings!

A quilted garment, probably imported from France. Some assembly required.


This gown was lovely in salmon pink. When you watched closely, the silk really resembled what we refer to as silk dupioni! A smooth one, but nevertheless.

The man's suit in patterned velvet was fun to see, because I've only seen it in a B-W photo until now.

People of the common classes in the late 18th century, dancing away...

It was hard to get a good picture of this lovely gown...

...and even harder still to get good pictures of this gentleman. He's wearing the National Habit, or Swedish Habit.
I love how this jacket has an asymmetrical, wrap-style closing! And the fabric!

***

This was by no means a huge exhibition, but I only showed the 18th century stuff now. I has moar pictures.

By the way, I have not forgotten about the give-away; there just hasn't been much time for working on it! When I can show some proof, the winner will be announced (but I don't know who it is yet myself!)

25 Jan 2010

More on stays...

While we're still on the subject:

Discovered these two stays in a Gothenburg museum's database (unfortunately not of great use if you don't know Swedish).

The pictures were taken in late 2009, which indicates that they're in the progress of digitalizing the collection to a greater degree - woohoo! A lot of their objects don't have pictures as of now, but maybe that's about to change?

Anyway; I'll do my best to translate the museum's description of these stays to you:

Linen stays (click link for additional views)



My translation:

Stays of natural linen (and cotton?) with springs of wood and baleen sewn in. The model gives a smooth front and flattens the bosom. The lower edge of the stays is tabbed and bound with white leather. Shoulder straps, circa 2 cm wide, are tied to the front pieces with plain ribbon. On each shoulder is a thin sewn-on brass grommet. The top edges are only basted together. Laced in front with 8 pairs of eyelets. Lining of coarse natural linen.


Silk stays (click for additional pics)



My translation:

Stays of yellow silk rep with springs sewn in. The stays are made from two different qualities of silk with different [weaving term; don't know the apt translation. Something about thickness of weft?] that have been combined for a decorative effect. The lower edge has sewn tabs and the model gives a straight posture with a flat bust. The springs go down past the hips and up and form open shoulder straps that are tied over the shoulders. Springs partly made of wood. The bodice is partly open in the front which is shaped with horizontal, triangular tabs that fasten at centre front with hooks and eyes. Laces in back, 10 pairs of eyelets for spiral lacing. Binding of yellow silk ribbon and natural linen. Lining of natural linen. The armscyes are reinforced in the back edge on both sides of the bodice.

---

If the text sounds somewhat confusing I must add that it's not
completely my fault although, my translation probably is a bit mangled. I tried to translate it word by word. For example they used the term "fjädrar" when referring to boning, which I see much more fit for corsets of later eras (like Victorian) so I translated it to springs although boning is more appropriate for garments of this type. If I make any sense at all - I'm afraid I'm lacking a lot of sleep today!

ETA: Is it bad that the Google translations (1, 2) only are a teensy bit worse than mine?

9 Dec 2009

Mini-project completed. Now onto a big one. Of madness.

I started on this little linen fichu yesterday and completed it today. It's rather smallish since I only had scraps left of the fabric.



One day I want to make a BIG one, the kind that wraps around you! But that will have to be in a time when I have forgotten how tedious rolled hems can be.

***

And tonight it was time to start on my new project of madness...

It is going to be a dress heavily inspired by an extant gown belonging to the museum of Gothenburg.



This gown was in its turn inspired by the National Costume that was launched by king Gustaf III in 17778 (Read Isis's great post on it here), but this gown's first owner must have been a fashion-conscious lady for this gown shows very few traces of the National gown, like this one,


but the much more fashionable profile of the 1780's.

What I like about it are the simple lines and the lack of embellishments (I am going to leave out the bow in the back, I think) and that it's black! When I stumbled upon this dress I had had thoughts about a black robe á la Francaise but I quickly changed my mind.

So tonight I made a working toile for the bodice (I had a pattern I could alter so it wasn't too much work) and I then cut out the lining for the bodice. Then I went on an extended break, lasting until tomorrow evening, post-dinner.

The lining is of grey linen and I have lots and lots of black silk taffeta for the gown itself.

What I can't tell from the museum's vague description is if the back is cut en forreau or not. I think it is and I have decided to make it that way because it will look awesome!

So the only cloud on my sky, and the madness part of this project, is the deadline. 12th night. Yeah, I'm crazy but if there's hope and all that. I may be able to hire my poor relatives for some sweatshop work if things get out of hand.

Wish me luck?

30 Aug 2009

The new exhibition at Nordiska Museet approaches

Nordiska Museet in Stockholm hasn't had a permanent exhibition with their extant costumes for over a year (or is it two?).

I knew that one is to open in 2010 but since it felt so very, very distant I never bothered to look for information or news about it.

Then tonight, it hit me: "Hey, 2010 isn't very far away by now!" so I went to their website to see what information they shared.

The name of the exhibition, that is going to be permanent! - is "Modemakt - 300 år av kläder", or "The power of fashion - 300 years of clothing".

Of course I'm mostly interested in how much of the exhibition that will be dedicated to the 18th century! I have seen some of the museum's 18th c clothes in person but some only pictured, like these, and I tried to sleuth a little by looking at "behind the scenes"-pictures they've published:

I think this is a part of the new exhibition rooms. It looks huge compared to the old one, which felt more like a crammed corridor!

Jeans shorts? Purple baseball jacket? Please - not too much contemporary stuff! Who goes to a museum to look at things they may have in their own closet?

Here dancers pose as mannequins to determine how the latter are going to be displayed. Ironic, isn't it?

Aha! They have written "1780's" on a note on the white board with a lot of pictures surrounding it...

Now this looks promising!

So does this...

The opening date will be February 27, 2010, with reservations for changes.

Seems Christmas will come very, very early in 2010...

5 Aug 2009

Just a little more costume porn...

Antike Textilen - a German vendor of antique clothing and textiles. A girl can dream, can't she..?

Only in German, I think, but the pictures is all you need anyway. Sigh.


4 Aug 2009

Eu nao falo portogues

...or: "I don't speak Portuguese", but if you do, you may get even more joy out of this Portuguese museum search engine: Matriznet

The search engine is available in English but the information on the objects is in Portuguese. But I always liked picture-books better anyway!

Click on collections to start a new search.

In the "Classification" box, choose "Traje".

Scroll down to "Century" and pick = in the first box and type XVIII in the second (if you want to search for 18th century items, of course!) and hit "Search" at the bottom of the page.

Mostly men's clothing, which is particularly of interest to me nowadays, since I've set my mind on making a suit for my husband - oh my!

Also beautiful fans and lovely buttons with painted miniatures among other things.







Worst mannequin ever? OMG - the HAIR!


DO WANT!

23 Jun 2009

Now in color!

I once did something very naughty...
See, I have this lovely little book from the 50's with b/w photographs of costumes, dating from 17th c to the 20th c , from Nordiska Museet (a museum in Stockholm).

Since the book is rather rare I decided that, for the benefit of the people, it would be a good idea to scan all the 18thc pictures and put them on Flickr (see them here).

However: even though my intentions were the best, from a copyright perspective, this really wasn't a cool thing to do. I got a (nice) email from a staff member of Nordiska Museet which pointed this out, but amazingly enough I was allowed to keep the pictures at Flickr! That's great public service.

This staff member must have kept my email address, for he just recently wrote to let me be informed of the new official Nordiska Museet photostream on Flickr.

It's a very mixed set of photos, but much to my joy I discovered three of the costumes from my book, but finally in colour! It was amazing to see these gorgeous costumes as they really look.

Man's gala court suit, 1790's
1780's suit worn by Axel von Fersen (!!!)
Woman's dress, 1750's

There's also some 19th century costumes there and pictures of historical interiors & c.

7 Apr 2009

Why the Danes should rule the Internet

Oooh - shiney!

First the Danes brought us Tidens töj - now they bring us Töj på kroppen, a small but lovely web collection of 18th century clothing (as well as garments from other eras) that I found through Bjarne "The Magnificent" Drew's livejournal.

Only in Danish, but the site is very easy to navigate so you non-Danish speakers won't have a hard time finding the loot.

Take me there, already!


3 Apr 2009

Want to go to shoe heaven?

You don't even have to die first in order to go there, just follow this link: Shoe Icons: 18th Century

(I'm sorry if 'old news are old', but I had completely missed this amazing online exhibition until now).

Great, GREAT pictures. Some of the shoes can even be viewed in 3D - actually, maybe I AM dead and in shoe heaven, or at least dreaming...


These shoes would be so perfect with my 'Pretty Princess Polonaise'...
...while these seem to defy all rules of physics (and comfort). But remember I'm the kind of woman who complains if the has to walk more than half a mile in heels more than one inches high...

27 Mar 2009

There IS a museum for everything! If only on the internet.

I stumbled upon The German Hosiery Museum before going to work today. Who would have guessed!

The museum only exists in this virtual form, as far as I can tell. There are mentions about plans regarding a physical museum, but the "News" section hasn't been updated since -03... And in these days on financial mayhem, I suppose it must be hard finding sponsors for a museum on hosiery, so virtual museum it is.

But who am I to complain? They even have a section on 18th century hosiery. Jump right there, if you wish!


25 Mar 2009

Pocketbook

While googling on 18th century pocket books, I struck a vein of gold right on the first page of search results.

Interweave Press offers diagrams and instructions for a folding pocket book with optional Irish stitching for the exterior.



I don't know when I'll find the time to make on of these, but I hope it'll be soon because I really need something neat to carry around all my monies, mobile phone, ID (and all those other things an 18th century lady couldn't leave the house without) in.

And some inspirational images on extant 18th century pocketbooks:Your's for $1,900 on Vintage Textile!


Another beautiful example from Vintage Textile



From Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

28 Feb 2009

Send one stepdaughter to Berlin with a camera...

No, I didn't actually send her there; she went by her own will. I didn't even bribe her into going to museums where there might have been costumes on display, she did that by herself as well!

Here are a few of the pictures she took (naturally, she couldn't use a flash so please accept the snapshots as is):







"Just my luck :( Whiplash injury right in time for the sitting."