11 Sept 2009

A man and his clothes

I have probably hinted here and there about making clothes for my husband. I think it's about time I presented the project, so at least I know what I have gotten myself into... I haven't sewed for anyone else but myself before and I can already tell that it's a completely different challenge. Mostly because you must nag about fittings here and fittings there to the victim all the time, which isn't always appreciated.

Anyhoo, the inspiration for my husband's outfit comes from this three-piece suit, worn by king Gustaf III in 1777 when he visited his cousin and neighbour, Catherine the Great.




It is merely for inspiration; I don't plan to recreate the clothes in any way.

So far, I have almost completed a waistcoat in silk taffeta. Here it lies on our rug, probably trembling with fear from the treatment it got when I worked on the five thousand buttonholes* (remove -on from the word, and we're much closer to the truth...).



The pocket flaps isn't attached yet and there are no pockets. Other than that, it's finished. It's more eggshell than snow white but my camera is worthless.



That leaves me with... Let's see:

1 shirt. I have already scrapped one shirt with one sleeve because it sucked. I think I'll leave the shirt to last.

1 pair of breeches. I purchased this pattern for drop front breeches from Eagle's View because I had read good reviews on it but I haven' touched it as of yet. If you don't count that time I opened the envelope, looked at all the lines and strange marks, quickly stuffed everything back and spent the rest of the evening under the kitchen table rocking back and forth. Breeches = scary stuff.

1 coat. The only good thing about the scariness degree of the breeches is that I still haven't realised how scary the prospect of making a well-fitting coat is. A coat must fit perfectly, it's pretty useless and a waste of fabric if it doesn't. I don't have a commercial pattern for this, I was thinking of using the 1770's frock coat pattern from "Cut of Men's Clothes". I see maaaany mock-ups in my crystal ball...

1 stock. This shouldn't be too much of a problem, I think.



I have this striped silk in design for the breeches and the coat.


Beige and brown - nice and earthy, and it also leaves me with a greater possibility of talking my husband into actually wearing the clothes! I love the more bright and what we may call feminine colours in 18th c male clothing but it's not worth the risk in this case.

There will be no embroidery or other embellishments; partly because my husband would disapprove, and partly because my embroidery skills are non-existent.

I will set the deadline to May 2011, I think. I agree, it's a little soon, but I was always the over-ambitious type, ya know. I think I'll make it.

*That's how much I love you, dear husband! Even if you probably prefer me showing it in other ways.

Gustaf III's clothes are described in the book "Kläder för tid och evighet" by Lena Rangström

Scoop!

Ladies and gentlemen, I can now reveal to you the source from where the hair team on "Amadeus" got their wigs (at a huge discount):


Possibly also where the costume folks at "Valmont" looked for ready-mades. They were too expensive, though.

Lol.

10 Sept 2009

Let's go for a walk

Yesterday was 09/09/09 and my mother would have turned 53 had she still been with us.

But she isn't so I went to her resting place at Järfälla churchyard to leave a little flower and spend a part of what might be the very last summer day of the year in her company.

A 10-minute ride with commuter train took me to Barkarby, a sleepy and desolate suburb of no consequence other than being only a few kilometers from the place where I grew up, and my eye first met with a hideous conference hotel with the name of "Welcome" (they obviously left out "...to the seventies" by mistake), but by walking for only a few minutes, I suddenly found myself in the middle of a square with two lovely old buildings.


The yellow house is the old municipal building, first raised in 1719. Today the house is let for parties, weddings and such. Next to it is the inn, of an even older date and once obliged by law to supply travelers with horses, food and shelter. You can still get a (pricey) meal there today.

The restaurant calls itself Lasse-Maja* after the notorious thief that dressed in women's clothing (partly as a disguise and partly because of preference) and continuously escaped from the clutches of the law (and prison) until he finally got caught and sentenced to life time imprisonment after robbing the church (which we soon will visit) in 1812. He was was tried in the yellow building and flogged on the square. He wrote his best-selling memoirs in prison and was eventually released to a few years as a living legend and celebrity until he died in 1845.

*His real name was Lars Molin. Lasse-Maja was a humorous nickname because Lasse is male and Maja female.


My walk continued past this little block of houses:


They were built in 1998 but blend in so nicely with the historic buildings nearby; I think of townhouses of undetermined origin and heartily approve.

But then, as a contrast that just have to be on purpose, right next to the church, I came upon these houses...



Let's play: When were these houses built?

1. 1968
X. 1974
2. 1980

Gotcha! All answers were wrong! They were built in 2008. And people live there.

Luckily, I had reached my goal and headed for the church.



The weather was so extremely nice and I felt as if summer had just begun rather than the opposite: the trees were all still green, the flowers bloomed and the sun shone upon the grass and...

...the pyramid.



Right. No cemetery is complete without its pyramid. Or so thought countess Anna Sofia Gyllenborg, who chose to raise this monument as a last resting place for her and her husband, Olof Adlerberg, in 1757. An underground passage connects the pyramid to the chancel. The couple also donated valuable silver to the church (little knowing it would be the fall of Lasse-Maja sixty years later).



The church itself was first erected in the 1100s but got its current look in the 15th century. The baptismal font, still used today, is from the earlier church though, which makes it older than Stockholm! Both me and my sister were baptised here, probably our mother too.



Her grave is situated close to the western wall and the place has changed a lot since we buried her in June 2004. Then there were only a few graves here and there besides hers, and today the place is completely filled.

One thing was a little strange: The plot on her left soon got occupied, but not the one to her right. More and more plots were taken, but the one to the right was still vacant, month after month that turned into years... Then my step father suddenly got very ill and died. It wasn't very hard to determine where he was going to lie.

Now, on a more personal note: my mother used to talk about where and how she wanted to be buried, how she wanted her funeral to be and so on, long before she knew she was ill. I used to be angry with her because I hated to think that she was going to die one day, but later I was very grateful.

Even in the shock and grief that followed her death, I smiled when my sister and I arranged the details according to her wishes (which she of course only had mentioned knowing they would make the oh-so-hard but oh-so-necessary arrangements easier on us. I just didn't realise it then).

She even told us how she wanted her grave marker to look!

She wanted an old-fashioned iron cross that was typical in parts of this country for several hundred years. They varied from smithy to smithy, but usually had more than one bar, and hanging ornaments. The most common was stylised leaves but my mother - always a hippie at heart! - told us she wanted stars and moons!



So starts and moons she got. I found a smithy in the province of Värmland (where my mother had her roots) that has made these crosses for three generations with traditional methods.

We are very happy with it and it amuses me to notice that my mother became a trend setter even after her death. Five years ago there was not one cross of this type on the graveyard; now I see a new one every time I visit.

It's with mixed feelings I go to my mother's grave, but today - thanks to the wonderful, wonderful weather - I felt pretty good.

And then I went to see my sister, who was very happy to see me!


Now, go and hug a dear one and I promise a sewing-related post will appear at this space tomorrow!

31 Aug 2009

More museum objects online...


..and while I'm still on the subject of Nordiska Museet:

They have a database with items from the textiles collection where you can find a few goodies but the search engine and interface is not exactly user friendly.

I'm not able to link to the results so I'll hold your hand while you explore the collections on your own.

Go to the search page of Textilgalleriet and switch to English in the top left if you prefer it that way.

I haven't explored the collection very extensively but you'll get some nice search results if you just enter "18th".

The search result will bring you 17th, 18th and some 19th century items. Don't expect actual costumes, but some highlights are many fine examples of embroidery (don't miss the adorable lion!), block printed 18thc fabric, lace and a fragment of a jacket in matelassé technique.

Big Plus: The "magnifying glass" feature lets you examine the objects very closely
Many objects have additional images

Big Minus: The programming is very confusing! Whatever you do - don't press the "back-button" in your browser when you wish to get back to the search results! It will only take you to the front page and you lose all your results.

Instead, when you're done viewing an object, you click "New Search" in the bar above the object. I know - it doesn't make sense, but it takes you back to the search results nevertheless.

There's also information about different textile techniques in the "Techniques" tab, unfortunately in Swedish only, except for an article on Swedish embroidery.

Overall - definitely a step in the right direction! And maybe, one day, Nordiska Museet put all of their costume collection online.

30 Aug 2009

The new exhibition at Nordiska Museet approaches

Nordiska Museet in Stockholm hasn't had a permanent exhibition with their extant costumes for over a year (or is it two?).

I knew that one is to open in 2010 but since it felt so very, very distant I never bothered to look for information or news about it.

Then tonight, it hit me: "Hey, 2010 isn't very far away by now!" so I went to their website to see what information they shared.

The name of the exhibition, that is going to be permanent! - is "Modemakt - 300 år av kläder", or "The power of fashion - 300 years of clothing".

Of course I'm mostly interested in how much of the exhibition that will be dedicated to the 18th century! I have seen some of the museum's 18th c clothes in person but some only pictured, like these, and I tried to sleuth a little by looking at "behind the scenes"-pictures they've published:

I think this is a part of the new exhibition rooms. It looks huge compared to the old one, which felt more like a crammed corridor!

Jeans shorts? Purple baseball jacket? Please - not too much contemporary stuff! Who goes to a museum to look at things they may have in their own closet?

Here dancers pose as mannequins to determine how the latter are going to be displayed. Ironic, isn't it?

Aha! They have written "1780's" on a note on the white board with a lot of pictures surrounding it...

Now this looks promising!

So does this...

The opening date will be February 27, 2010, with reservations for changes.

Seems Christmas will come very, very early in 2010...

27 Aug 2009

Making a straw hat - the easy (and cheap) way

I mentioned on the forum that I once made a decent low-crowned straw hat out of three place mats hat and was asked how I did it.

Well, I'll tell you, as well as I'm able to, and show with my own fool-proof Photoshop illustrations spiced up with various clip-art images stolen from around the web. Even mad PS skillz like mine need a little extra help sometimes.

OK, here we go:



Hello! In this tutorial, you will learn how to make a basic low-crowned straw hat out of three place mats!

It won't be the kind of hat that a milliner would be proud of, but it's a cheap and fun way to experiment with different styles and trims and colours with little effort.

Note: I have used this method only once (and should have taken pictures...) and was very pleased with the result, but as always: use at own risk! And don't sue. This is a hat that is supposed to be pimped with trims and goodies, so that any unavoidable flaws won't be noticed.

Let's go: Buy three place mats of a size you think suitable in a store of your choice. I got four for ca 10 EURO, they looked like this (I used the purple - the result can be seen here). Make sure they're made from some kind of natural straw; synthetics may very well work but I haven't tried it so we don't want to risk anything.



Step 1: Glue two of the place mats together (skip this if your type of place mat is very stiff. I did this because the brim would be too floppy otherwise).

Don't use a glue that is too runny - it may bleed through to whatever surface you put the place mats on and leave marks on the hat - but it's better be strong. Remember to open a window if your glue is very strong, or you may experience a conga line of psychedelic animals or worse. Cover the place mats with heavy books and leave them for now.



Step 2: Soak your third place mat with water!


Step 3: Find an object in your home that is shaped just as you want the crown of your hat to look. I found an ugly, purple flower pot that had made no one happy until now. It was cylindrical and turned upside down it proved to be the perfect hat shape.
Put your soaked place mat on top of the object and gently but determinedly shape the place mat around it - remember, you're the boss around here! Try to get it as smooth and even as possible. Use a little violence if necessary but be careful not too make the soaked material rip or tear.



Step 4: (And here comes my pièce de résistance!) Tie a piece of fabric or a ribbon, or whatever you have, around the newly shaped brim (a helper may come in handy here).
Let it dry overnight or longer (I let mine dry for 24 hours but that may not be needed).




Step 5: Your hat crown should now be dry and ready to be removed from the shape. Trim away all surplus until you have only the crown plus an extra centimeter or so.
If you leave too much, you can always trim it down later but not the other way around! Put the crown back onto the shape used.




Step 6: Let's get back to the brim which should also have dried by now.
Check the diameter of the crown and mark on the brim where it will sit, but subtract 1,5 centimeters from the radius and cut out a circle, that consequently is somewhat smaller than the diameter of the brim.



Step 7: From the center of the brim (which is actually a hole), cut small cuts outwards, all way around the cut-out.
As always, it's better to cut too little than too much.



Step 8: Go back to the crown that sits on the shape and firmly press the brim down onto it.
If it won't fit, cut a little more as in step 7.




Step 9: Now the crown is surrounded by little tabs that will secure the brim to it.
Help them by gluing and perhaps sew a few stitches around the crown as you see fit.

When the glue has dried, check that it looks OK on the wrong side. You may have to trim down the bottom of the crown if it peeks out too much.



Your hat is now ready to launch. You can experiment by shaping the brim into any style you like, pretty much like you shaped the crown - soaking and some kind of outer force.

And now you're on your own, because I won't tell you how to doll up your brand new hat - I'm sure you will manage that perfectly. The possibilities are endless:

You can have a very pretty, simple hat...
like so...

Or something fancier and froufier...
...like so! Have fun!



Hope this was of any help to you. This will probably be the only tutorial you get from me since I'm usually the one who gets tutored rather than the other way around.

But I DEMAND to see what you make! You know where to find me...

All the best,

Madame B

26 Aug 2009

AAFTAE

Sorry, I should have done this a long time ago.



As things turned out, I received one Amadeus award from both The Dreamstress and American Duchess, and as one should nominate five blogs in return, I'm going to interpret this as if I'm therefore allowed to give away 5x2=10 awards! It made the hard decisions much easier, plus I can give the award to someone who gave it to me. Ain't I clever.

So, in strict alphabetical order, I proudly present my nominees for the
A
madeus Award For Taste And Excellence (AAFTAE):

18th century baby - because she's got one heck of an eye for detail

American Duchess - because she has some mad skillz, and because not all duchesses can be European

Anna Skomakare - because she makes OMG shoes! (and pretty costumes, too!)

Augusta Fredrika - because she she's such a sucker for Swedish 18th century as myself

Fuchsia's 18th century dress - because I think she could do anything

Gillray's Printshop - because history+humour=EPIC WIN!

Isis Wardrobe - because she's smart, nice, handsome and helpful

Lithia Black - because she's creative and fun

Swillwill's 18th century - because maybe this will make him update more...

The Dreamstress - because she has ambition, skills, a great sense of humour and rocks



Never stop blogging, please? You all brighten up my day.